If you hear intensive electrolyte 'boiling' or 'bubbling' inside the battery or the battery starts to heat up to unacceptable levels, disconnect the charger immediately. As with all chargers that have shut off when the battery is fully charged, you can't rely on this feature and charge the battery without any supervision whatsoever. This can lead to acid inside the cells starting to boil, which means that hydrogen is released, which is bad. Charging damaged, deformed or leaking batteries is not a good idea.Īlso, if your battery is worn out and just cant get to the maximum cell voltage, the charger WILL try to charge it to the maximum voltage no matter what. Use this way around only if you are sure that you have a known good, but depleted battery. After it has started charging, it will not perform the start charging check again and will charge even completely depleted battery. Connect the charger, then connect the PSU to the terminals of the battery/while observing the correct polarity/ and then you can trick the charger to start charging. Not to mention that this is also done in order for the end users not to try to charge damaged batteries, which can lead to even explosion of the battery, This means that if you have 12v battery, which was drained because of leakage currents in your car to 5-6-7V, the charger will refuse to charge it, because it doesn't know whether it is heavily discharged 12V battery of fully charged 6V battery.

Their disadvantage is that if the battery is heavily discharged, the charger will refuse to charge it. They are SMPS based chargers with control electronics. Many stores sell them under different brands, including Lidl, Praktiker and etc. This is generic charger, sold under many different names.

Battery charger cen tech